Sunday, November 3, 2013

When life gives you lemons...

Sometimes things simply do not go your way. Writing this I have practically not been able to train for almost two months..! It all started at the World Games in Colombia in August. The day before the competition I injured my right middle finger. I decided that the best option was to pursue with caution so I competed, actually without experiencing any pain at all. Thinking it was not a serious injury I continued training as normal when I got back home. It worked out fine until one session in late September. Pain, swollen and all blue. Diagnose: most likely a (partly) ruptured upper pulley. After consulting doctors and people with knowledge in the field, I decided to take one month off climbing to let my finger heal.

Injuries suck! But since I started university at the end of August this gave me time to adapt to the student life and getting used to studying again. One month passed and I felt more eager than ever to climb. But no, I managed to catch tonsillitis and had to take antibiotics for ten days. After recovering from the illness I missed climbing more than I ever thought I could and was ready to finally start training again. But no, I got a fracture in one of my toes and then an inflammation in my knee... Seriously? Cherry on top, add studying for exams too.

Studying and rehab training

Well, experiencing setbacks and not being able to do one of the things you love the most in life certainly put things in perspective. All this was a reminder that that in the end the best you can do is to accept the situation and make the best you can out of it - and try to stay positive! This week I was back on the wall again. Although feeling very out of shape, I can definitely say that I have never appreciated climbing this much. I am really motivated to train and get back in the game! However, as for the rest of this season, I will not be able to do any of the remaining World Cups but hopefully going to Spain to climb outside during in December or January!

Spain  Photo: Jonas Wiklund

As I mentioned earlier all this has given me time to focus on school. It was really a transition to start studying again, but I really like it is so much fun! It is very stimulating and inspiring to face all these new challenges and have gotten know the most amazing people.

Thanks to all my friends, family and trainers who have all been very supportive the past couple of weeks 

On friday I am going on a quick (and rather spontaneous) visit to NYC to train and hang out with one of my best friends Sasha Digiulian wihooo =)

Friday, August 9, 2013

World Games 2013

One competition, two continents, four countries and six flights - in five days. Intense? Yes. Was it worth it? YES. Puh, it has definitely been a couple of hectic days. I just got back from Cali, Colombia after competing at the World Games, which is like the Olympics but for non-Olympic sports. The competition went far better than I had expected and I finished in 6th place!
Prior to leaving for Colombia I felt rather nervous as I had a massive travel ahead of me. Additionally, I was very uncertain of my shape since I had not been able to train very well lately and not competed in lead for over six months. However, when competing the only thing you can actually control is your own performance, so my focus was to try to perform my very best and climb as well as possible. The semifinal went really well. I fell just a few moves before the top and was very satisfied with my climbing. This qualified me for finals in 3rd place, yay!

Climbing in finals went well up until 2/3 of the route where I suddenly slipped with my foot, barely being tired at all. Before I knew it I was back on the ground. Bummer! I finished in 6th place, which I am still very happy about.

To summarize I had an amazing time in Colombia. Just to compete at the World Games was a super cool experience. I had really missed competing so it felt nice to be back in the game. Also, it was my first (although short) time in South America. We actually managed to do quite a few things considering the short amount of time. The 2,5 days we had in Cali consisted in visiting the Cali Zoo, exploring some parts of the city and a famous market, lots and lots of taxi rides, hanging by the pool and eating a luxury breakfast at a 5-star hotel. This time I traveled with the Austrian team which was a lot of fun, thanks guys =)

Tuesday, July 30, 2013

❀ July ❀

I love summer! For the first time ever I have actually been spending most of the time at home in Stockholm. I have never enjoyed my hometown as much as now! However, this was not what I had planned for the summer...

In June I had two fairly big setbacks in my climbing - I managed to tweak my back in Zillertal and then got a viscous virus which prevented me from training. This caused me to miss the European Championship in Chamonix and the first World Cup in Briançon. I was of course very unhappy about this. But you learn from all experiences and one way or another something good comes out of every situation. I allowed myself to a little mental break from climbing, which was good considering the fact that a lot of other things have been going on in my life lately. In the middle of July I found out I got accepted to the university I applied to, so from this fall I will be a student at the Stockholm School of Economics. My plan is to be able to combine my climbing and my studies (more about this in a later post). Also, I moved into town, to my own apartment! Two big steps in life, super happy and excited about this!

Anyways, now I am back to training as normal and I have been trying to get in some sort of shape. On thursday I am going to COLOMBIA for the World Games. Even though I am aware of that my fitness is not what it was earlier this year I am really looking forward on going there. It is going to be fun to compete again and in addition it will be my first time ever visiting South America =)

Sunday, June 30, 2013

VIDEO: Trailer for Marmot Rocks Zillertal 2013

Great footage and very nicely edited by Bernardo Gimenez, stay tuned for the full-length version!

Friday, June 14, 2013


Rain, rain, rain, a bit of sun and a lot of fun - that would summarize my days in Zillertal. I went to the beautiful Zillertal valley in Austria for the annual Marmot team trip. I was really looking forward to climb at a new place and hang out with the other Marmot sponsored athletes. Unfortunately the weather the conditions refused to cooperate this time... First two days: RAIN. Third and last day: Sunny but most of the routes and boulders were still wet. Oh well... We got to do some climbing and despite the poor conditions everyone was still happy and motivated and we really did the best out of it. I am really happy to be working with Marmot, thanks for a fun trip guys!

Sunday, June 2, 2013

Swedish Climber of the year

Wihooo I received the "Climber of the year" - award from the Swedish Climbing Federation for my performances in 2012! THANK YOU!

...Now I'm on my way to Zillertal for a couple of days of climbing outside with the Marmot team. Excited =) 

© Tim Glasby

Monday, May 13, 2013

Gold at the Swedish Bouldering Championship!

Last weekend I took the train to the west coast and Gothenburg to participate in the Swedish Bouldering Championship. The competition was probably the best I have been to in Sweden, everything was very well organized and the boulder problems were fun and spectacular. In addition, the competition was held in conjunction with the Nordic Outdoor fare so it gathered a big crowd of climbers and (hopefully) soon-to-be-climbers. I got first place so I was very happy about the result and my climbing wahooo!

I had so much fun competing and catching up with old friends I have not seen in ages - what a great weekend =)

I really liked the colors of the walls..!

© Martin Argus

Thursday, April 18, 2013

Tierra Boulder Battle

My problem - long and crimpy =)
What a fun weekend! The Tierra Boulder Battle took place at Klättercentret K2 here in Stockholm this Saturday. Me and five other girls were competing, Alex Puccio, Melissa Le Nevé, Mina Leslie-Wujastyk, Therese Johansen and Anja Hodann. It was an interesting competition format as we all got to set our own problems and work them together before the actual competition, which really made it a great show! It was so much fun competing again and hanging out with the other girls... And I got 2nd place =) 

I also got the pleasure to meet John Ellison, the founder of Climbers Against Cancer, this weekend. Such an amazing and inspiring person! Big ups to Björn Pohl and Klättercentret for organizing yet another great event!  

I hope you all enjoyed the show if you were watching! Here is the replay of the compeition.

Check out the video by Sandstones Media to see what happened backstage...

Tierra Boulder Battle 2013 - BACKSTAGE PASS from Sandstones Media on Vimeo.

Saturday, April 6, 2013

This made my day ❤

I gave away my old climbing shoes to a charity project for climbers in Iran. The shoes got delivered today! So inspiring to see all the photos of happy faces and being a part of making it possible for these people to go climbing too. 

Tuesday, April 2, 2013

España in pictures

I am back home after three amazing weeks in Spain. It was a great trip, climbing super cool routes, having fun with my friends, being outside in the nature - just doing some of the things I love the most life! In addition, I am very pleased that I managed to climb my hardest route to date, Pati Noso 8c/+ in Siurana. Wohoo! 

While I was in Spain I did a little interview for the Catalan website Sense Pell, check it out here if you want to read it.

Here is a collage of pictures from my trip, I hope you enjoy it... =)

Day 1, climbing in Margalef. Back on the rock, climbing fun routes, warm and sunny weather... In other words, a perfect first day of climbing! © Jonas Wiklund

Siurana, definitely one of my favorite crags. Very happy to finish my project from last year, Pati Noso 8c/+, in 4 tries this time! Such a cool route! © Jonas Wiklund

Battle scars... Auch!
Cafe cortado, standard breakfast. 
Rest day activity = bread baking

Tranquilo, tranquilo!
Reunited ♥ I met up with Sasha in Oliana for one week of climbing and having fun... © Simon Carter
Juuust hanging... On Fish Eye 8c. Magnificent 50 meter route with beautiful climbing! Happy to send it third go! © Simon Carter
Summer feeling! Having breakfast by the lake in Sant Llorenç de Montgai before climbing, great start of the day.
Scenic view from Steve and Angie's apartment in La Figuerola, thanks for everything guys!  
Oliana, last day of climbing this trip... ¡Hasta luego España! =)

Tuesday, March 19, 2013

Oliana muy bien! Climbing fun routes and hanging with friends. Had such a nice and sunny day at the crag today! Climbed Fish Eye, 8c, 3rd go, YAY!

Sunday, March 10, 2013

Pati Noso

Today I climbed Pati Noso 8c/+! 40 meters if beautiful climbing, such a cool route!

I tried the route a few times last year when I was in Siurana. My plan for this week was actually to climb in Margalef. But due to the rainy weather earlier this week, many sectors were wet. So direction Siurana it was... Since I left without sending Pati Noso last year, I though it would be interesting to give it a try and see how it would feel this time. I worked the moves and tried it three times in total yesterday. Everything felt a lot better than before and very possible. Nice to feel progression! Today I did it on my first go! It is definitely one of the coolest routes that I have ever done, and the hardest...

Now time to celebrate! HAPPY TIMES!

Photo by Jonas Wiklund

Thursday, March 7, 2013

Probably the best bread in the world

Cooking and baking have always been big interests of mine. Since I have been at home for a while now and not away on any trips, I have had the opportunity to spend some time in my kitchen. This is one of my favorite recipes - a bread that is very simple to make but so delicious! It is also a great training snack!

What you need and how to do it:

1 dl mixed nuts and seeds
1 dl linseeds
100 g dried apricots
2 dl oat grains
5 dl flour
2 tea spoons of bicarbonate
1 pinch of salt
1 grated apple
3 table spoons of honey
4 dl plain yogurt
1 tea spoon of cinnamon
1 handful of sunflower seeds for garnish

Mix all ingredients in a bowl. Place a baking sheet in a baking pan and pour in the dough. Garnish with sunflower seeds. Bake in owen at 175° C for 60-80 minutes (depending on the size and shape of the baking pan).

Voilà, super easy and super tasty!

Tuesday, March 5, 2013

London and more training...

I was very tired (to say the least) after finishing the period of basic training. A much needed week of recovery and easier training awaited. Thus, I took the opportunity and went with my family to London for a few days to visit my sister and some friends. I guess restdays could be spent a lot worse... 

After three lovely days in London I was back in Stockholm and back to training again. The feeling I have had since then is that I am regaining and - more importantly - improving my strength and fitness. In other words, training is going according to plan... Tomorrow I am changing training facility, from plastic to rock. I am going to Spain for some climbing outside, vengaaa =) 

Route setting in between sessions! Third time setting ever (!), I should start preparing for Tierra Boulder Battle... 

Thursday, January 31, 2013

Training mode!

I had a really enjoyable trip to Turkey and being back on the rock again felt great! It was fun and very relaxed, just climbing routes that looked nice and appealing. In addition, I always find it exciting and interesting visiting a new country, encountering a different culture and climbing new fun routes. All I could have wished for was a little better (warmer) weather as it was actually the coldest winter in Geyikbayiri in 8 years..! Since I would not be there for too long and I was just back to climbing after my break over the holidays, I decided to just try as many routes as possible onsight or flash. I did some routes in the 8a+ to 7c range that were all very nice! 

I went back home to Stockholm with new gained motivation and ready to start training! After my return I have been doing a lot of basic training, in terms of strength and endurance, in order to gain more fitness and be able to endure more training further on. At the moment the focus i on core training, finger strength and endurance. During this period I am supposed to get very tired physically. However, I believe that listening to your body to maintain high quality in training is significant.  

Last year I really learnt the importance - and the difficulties - of finding balance in training and everything else in life. Bearing that in mind, I think that in order to optimize the training, it is more about training smart and listening to your body rather than following a program to the letter. And of course always remember to have fun...  

Also, I recently did an interview for EpicTV which you can read here =)

Monday, January 7, 2013

❄ Christmas break ❄

... Is over and it is time to get ready for 2013! I took some time off from climbing during Christmas to let my body (and head) recover. Despite being rather restless some days it was definitely good to charge the batteries and gain some new motivation. But, I have not been completely idle during my little break. Winter in Sweden this year has been cold and we have had a huge amount of snow. Eventhough I am not a big fan of cold weather, I enjoyed being outside, going X-country skiing and just having fun in the snow!

A part from all the winter activities, I also attended the opening of a new exhibition at the Swedish National museum of sports. Climbing is actually fairly big part of the exhibition, with a big boulder wall and really nice photos. Pretty cool! Climbing as a sport has grown a lot in Sweden recently and it has been getting more and more attention and exposure in media, which I really believe is great.

It feels eally nice to be back climbing again. Now I am heading to Geyikbayiri in Turkey for one week of climbing outside! Wohoo =)