Prime Time To Shine

Yesterday i did my second 8c, Prime time to shine, in Clear Creek Canyon!

 Photo by Scott Clark

Back to sport climbing! After two weeks with lots of bouldering in the gym and outside and only a small amount of endurance oriented training, I was very excited to climb some routes again. Primo Wall in Clear Creek Canyon was on the agenda and my plan was to try Prime time to shine.

The route is about 18 meters long with super fun and cool climbing. It has two obvious cruxes, one in the beginning and one almost at the very end, which both consist of quite powerful moves. I spent five tries figuring out the sequences, messing up the sequences several times and getting more and more tired after every go on the route. Even though I felt rather sore, I decided to make one last try... And managed to climb all the way to the anchors and sent the route! Wohoo! Thanks to Gabor for the perfect beta and the perfect belay and thanks to Scott for the photos!

 Photo by Scott Clark

I have come to the conclusion that often when I try to project a route, I just find a sequence that works - not the best one for me. As a result, I almost always have tries where I mess up the moves or forget my beta, which of course waste a lot of energy. I have to become more accurate when I am working the moves and I will definitely try to improve this!

Now I only have two days left in Boulder. On Friday I am flying to THE BIG APPLE to visit my friend Sasha DiGiulian, train and just travel as a tourist in the big city (I hope I don't t get lost...) =)